The DO of Jerez is based around the three towns of Jerez de la Frontera, Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. The bodegas identify quite strongly with their respective locations, especially those of the coastal Sanlúcar de Barrameda where Manzanilla, the lightest style of sherry, is produced.
All sherry producers source their grapes from the bright, chalky ‘albariza’ soils of Jerez. Palomino, the main sherry grape, thrives in the vineyards here alongside the other two key grapes - Pedro Ximénez, which makes a rich, black, raisiny wine for blending and treacle-like dessert wines and Moscatel which makes a delightful lighter dessert wine.
After the soil and the grapes the third major ingredient is oak. Sherry wines mature in large oak butts (500 litre barrels) which are arranged in three row high ‘soleras’. The young wines are poured into the top row and wine is then transferred downwards enabling the fresher wines to blend with those of more maturity and a consistent style for each bodega year after year.
There is a sherry wine for most occasions and foods and the wines fall into three broad categories. Dry styles range from very dry Manzanillas and Finos to slightly richer amber and mahogany coloured Amontillados, Olorosos and the rare Palo Cortado style. Sweeter sherries include pale cream, medium and cream. Finally there are natural sweet sherries which are made from the Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel grapes. The alcoholic strength of sherries ranges from 15.5˚ for the lightest styles (Manzanilla and Fino) to 22˚ for sweeter, more structured wines.
The best way to learn about the fascinating art of sherry production and appreciate a wine straight from the cask is to visit a bodega in Jerez where the producers are well known for their tours, tastings and hospitality. There is a long association with the UK where sherry has been enjoyed for over 400 years, indeed many names of the original English, Scottish or Irish sherry shippers can still be seen in the industry today.
Whether you’re in Spain or the UK, the best way to enjoy dry sherry is fresh, chilled and with food - nuts, olives or crisps or perhaps some serrano ham are ideal for sherry as an aperitif and different sherries can be enjoyed throughout the meal.
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