The young DO of Bierzo has attracted a great deal of interest despite being tucked away in the north western corner of Castilla y León and being somewhat removed from the main hub of the Duero Valley. Indeed Bierzo’s climate and wines could be described as a hybrid between Galicia and Castille.

As in the case of neighbouring Valdeorras, Godello and Mencía dominate the quality wines. In Bierzo’s case red wines made from Mencía are causing the excitement thanks to the impressive winemaking skills of both local winemakers and those from other Spanish regions who have recognised its potential here.

Mencía is perfectly at home in the Bierzo’s mild climate and slate soils which combine to produce a wine which is more structured than the light, fruity reds of Galicia but leaner than the powerful styles of the Duero. In summary they have a character of their very own bringing welcome diversity to Spanish reds with their dark chocolate and black fruit flavours which are enhanced by French oak for the main part.

Bierzo features an attractive mix of castles, vineyards, pine forests and delightful mountain scenery. The focal point for wine is the market town of Cacabelos, a popular place for pilgrims to rest along the Camino de Santiago.

These days the locals will welcome you at their restaurants and bodegas. They may suggest a glass of Bierzo red with Bierzo botillo, a typical spicy pork sausage, local trout or pimientos del Bierzo (green peppers). A wide selection of game – boar, partridge, quail and venison - can also be found according to the season.

Costers del Segre means 'the banks of the River Segre'; the river flows down from the Pyrenees
and joins the River Ebro just south of Lleida (Lérida).

The DO is made up of seven districts surrounding Lleida. They bring together contrasting soils and climates and one of the longest and most varied lists of grape varieties of all the Catalan DOs. Les Garrigues shares some similarities with Montsant and Priorat - old vine Garnacha and Macabeo can be found here - whereas Artesa has more in common with Aragón’s Somontano to the west.

The driving force behind Costers del Segre was Raïmat, one of Spain’s largest single estates. It was developed according to a comprehensive agricultural plan instigated by Manuel Raventós which incorporated replanting vines and developing other crops during the most of the 20th century.

Further inland and drier than the more coastal areas, Catalan varieties didn’t thrive on the Raïmat estate, so Tempranillo and other international varieties were introduced and proved to be successful. This resulted in a truly international grape mix for the DO from the year of its creation onwards.

The Aragonese DO of Campo de Borja is located to the south of the River Ebro. It is one of three DOs within the province of Zaragoza along with Calatayud and Cariñena. For all three regions Garnacha is a distinguishing feature and it is certainly the main point of interest for Campo de Borja which describes itself as 'El Imperio de la Garnacha'.

Over half Campo de Borja’s vineyards are dedicated to Garnacha including low-yielding older vines (30-50 years old) which have the potential to produce powerful, aromatic wines. This traditional variety is supported by other varieties such as Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.

Another key factor is altitude. Campo de Borja’s vineyards are divided into three key areas each giving its own style of wine. The lower lying area (350-450m) around Magallón and Pozuelo de Aragón produces structured and aromatic wines and here Garnacha ripens relatively early; around Ainzón, Borja and Feudejalón ((450-550m) the wines are more structured and intense and in the highest areas, which include parts of Ainzón and Fuendejalón as well as Tabuenca and El Buste (550-700m), the finest and most elegant styles are sourced.

The soils are generally well drained and various types can be found including limestone, chalk and clay which are all apt for vine growing.

Campo de Borja is home to a small number of export-orientated producers who have invested in the latest winemaking technology. The region has proved that it can produce well made and competitively priced wines but all the elements are in place for greater things to come.

Cigales is located to the north west of Ribera del Duero and 13km from Valladolid. All the DOs of Castilla y León bring something different to the party and the outstanding feature of Cigales is rosé wine. However there are also interesting developments in red wines making this a region to watch.

As in the case of Ribera del Duero and Toro, Tempranillo is the main grape cultivated and the dominant variety for both rosé and red wines.

Rosé wines fall into two categories: the young Cigales Nuevo and the more structured Cigales rosés which are released just over a year after the respective vintage and generally spend some time in the barrel. Interestingly the rosés are made from a blend of red and white grapes – mostly Tempranillo with around 20% of Albillo and Verdejo. (The sweet tasting Albillo offers good acidity and small amounts are added to both rosés and reds).

There is a growing belief that Cigales has great potential for red wines and if this can be pulled off its reputation is likely to develop quickly. The essential ingredients seem to be in place, namely the rocky limestone soils and high altitude together with a continental climate similar to that of Ribera del Duero.

Red wines must be made from 85% of Tempranillo.

The DO of Jerez is based around the three towns of Jerez de la Frontera, Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. The bodegas identify quite strongly with their respective locations, especially those of the coastal Sanlúcar de Barrameda where Manzanilla, the lightest style of sherry, is produced.

All sherry producers source their grapes from the bright, chalky ‘albariza’ soils of Jerez. Palomino, the main sherry grape, thrives in the vineyards here alongside the other two key grapes - Pedro Ximénez, which makes a rich, black, raisiny wine for blending and treacle-like dessert wines and Moscatel which makes a delightful lighter dessert wine.

After the soil and the grapes the third major ingredient is oak. Sherry wines mature in large oak butts (500 litre barrels) which are arranged in three row high ‘soleras’. The young wines are poured into the top row and wine is then transferred downwards enabling the fresher wines to blend with those of more maturity and a consistent style for each bodega year after year.

There is a sherry wine for most occasions and foods and the wines fall into three broad categories. Dry styles range from very dry Manzanillas and Finos to slightly richer amber and mahogany coloured Amontillados, Olorosos and the rare Palo Cortado style. Sweeter sherries include pale cream, medium and cream. Finally there are natural sweet sherries which are made from the Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel grapes. The alcoholic strength of sherries ranges from 15.5˚ for the lightest styles (Manzanilla and Fino) to 22˚ for sweeter, more structured wines.

The best way to learn about the fascinating art of sherry production and appreciate a wine straight from the cask is to visit a bodega in Jerez where the producers are well known for their tours, tastings and hospitality. There is a long association with the UK where sherry has been enjoyed for over 400 years, indeed many names of the original English, Scottish or Irish sherry shippers can still be seen in the industry today.

Whether you’re in Spain or the UK, the best way to enjoy dry sherry is fresh, chilled and with food - nuts, olives or crisps or perhaps some serrano ham are ideal for sherry as an aperitif and different sherries can be enjoyed throughout the meal.

DO Montsant was established only in 2001 when the prime vineyards of high-altitude Falset won separate status from Tarragona.

The area is made up of a particularly dynamic set of producers and its vineyards form an almost complete circle around Priorato. Indeed a number of winemakers work in both DOs and they can often be seen comparing notes at El Cairat restaurant in Falset. (A visit to this restaurant is highly recommended if you’re visiting the town complete with its castle and palaces.)

Montant’s soils are not on the same high calibre level as those of Priorato with the exception of Falset and Cornudella de Montsant where the highly prized llicorella (slate and quartzite) features but there is an interesting combination of soils across the DO including chalk, slate and granitic.

Like its illustrious neighbour, Montsant produces concentrated red wines from old vine Garnacha Tinta and Cariñena and international grapes have adapted well here in recent years. Montsant’s producers are a combination of modern co-operatives and family bodegas. They are united in their quest for high quality making this a DO to watch closely.

The Atlantic Ocean, pine forests lining hills that overlook fjord-like inlets, vines trained on pergolas and light, fresh, aromatic wines to complement the finest array of seafood. Welcome to Galicia, green Spain and the home of the country’s most sought-after quality wine: Albariño from the DO of coastal Rías Baixas.

This DO is still barely out of its teens, yet no upmarket restaurateur in Madrid would exclude an Albariño from its list, especially if a range of fish is offered. The local markets of Galicia feature a vast choice including highly prized percebes (goose barnacles), octopus, oysters, prawns, every variety of squid, bream and sea bass which go perfectly with Albariño wines.

Thanks to a leap in quality and the benefits of modern winemaking techniques, Albariño has captured the imagination both at home and abroad and vineyards have been expanding in recent years to keep pace with demand for the wines.

Albariño wines do not come cheap for various reasons. The region’s producers, known as adegas, tend to be small and only bottled wines are permitted according to DO regulations to encourage producers to focus on quality. The size of the vintage can also vary quite dramatically from year to year due to the damp climate here – note that the average rainfall in this Celtic corner of Spain is far higher than most other Spanish regions and indeed most parts of the UK.

But the climate does present a major advantage: getting the desired level of acidity for these crisp white wines is rarely a problem for producers in the Rías Baixas.

Most Albariños from the Rías Baixas are unoaked and made to be enjoyed within a year of their vintage, so look out for recent vintages as a rule. However, some Albariño wines have the capacity to age; they develop a tangy, minerally character and are well worth seeking out.

The DO of Ribera del Duero is credited with a great deal. This was the first region to unleash the red winemaking potential of the Duero Valley, ahead of Toro and significantly it has grown to rival Rioja in terms of prestige and reputation providing welcome diversity at the top end of the Spanish wine spectrum.

Ribera del Duero’s success is firmly based on Tempranillo (also known locally as Tinto Fino or Tinta del País). The variety is used almost exclusively by producers to make reds with various ageing credentials and rosés but oak aged wines of a high calibre and capable of many years of ageing are the main focus in the region.

Ribera del Duero’s vineyards are situated to the north and south of the River Duero which runs from east to west though its middle. The focal point of wine activity is the town of Aranda de Duero where most of the vineyards are located. Another key town is Peñafiel which features a castle where a wine museum can be found.

Since the late 80s there has been significant replanting in the region and there is now a modern and very professional approach to vineyard management and harvesting. This is vital to achieve quality in view of the viticultural challenges caused by spring frost, hail and autumn rains.

The high altitude of the vineyards is a significant factor where quality is concerned; most are located at 750-800 metres above sea level. This means that there is wide variation in temperature especially during the summer; it is not unusual to reach 35˚C during the day and as low as 12˚C at night during August which encourages the vines to rest and favours grapes with lively acidity and concentration.

Substantial investment in upgrading or completely new bodegas has also taken place at a fast pace since the DO was established. Gravity flow is a common feature to ensure careful handling of the must and the highest possible quality. Winemakers use a combination of American, French and other European oak barrels.

Rioja, the best known of the Spanish wine regions, carefully preserves its wine styles but there are also some modern trends which are interesting to observe.

Located partly within the Basque country, Rioja is best known for red wines and the Tempranillo grape. The versatile nature of this variety means that the region’s red wines cover variety of styles from young easy-drinking wines through to more sophisticated styles capable of many years of cellaring. Some producers also offer white wines*, including some fine barrel-fermented and oak-aged styles, and rosés.

Most Rioja wines are aged according to strict ageing specifications and not released until they are considered to be ready to be enjoyed which is makes this region rather unique in the wine world. The various ageing categories – Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva – are indicated on the back label. Other grapes in the blend may also be indicated: Tempranillo is supported by Graciano, Garnacha and Mazuelo depending on the producer and even Cabernet Sauvignon occasionally. This gives Rioja wines their distinctive style, especially in barrel aged wines.

Not all Rioja wines follow the traditional age classifications. Indeed some modern styles place more focus on a specific vineyard or ‘pago’ reflecting the strong interest among producers to offer wines with distinctive local character.

Rioja’s first bodegas date back to 1870-1890 and the region expanded and established its reputation at home and abroad during the 20th century. The early years of this century has seen some exciting changes with new wave of modern architecture appearing on the landscape (and many metres under ground for new cellars).

The works of famous architects such as Santiago Calatrava and Frank Gehry now rub shoulders with historic cellars making Rioja a great place to visit for wine, food and spectacular local scenery set against the rocky Sierra Cantabria mountains.

Rioja’s wine routes guide visitors through the delightful towns which make up the Rioja heartland including Haro, Labastida, Cenicero and Elciego where you can stop at the bodegas for tours and tastings.

*In 2007 Rioja’s Consejo Regulador incorporated six additional white grape varieties. They include the local varieties Maturana Blanca, Tempranillo Blanco and Turruntés and three grapes not native to Rioja: Verdejo, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Rueda, which is located in the heart of Castilla y León to the north west of Madrid, emerged as a welcome addition to Spain’s quality white wines when DO status was granted in 1980. The region’s producers had demonstrated that the cooler climate here coupled with modern winemaking technology which avoided oxidation could result in fresh, fruity white wines based on Verdejo, Sauvignon Blanc and Viura.

Although Sauvignon Blanc has proved to be successful in the region, plantings of Verdejo have increased significantly over recent years giving the region a point of difference in its wines. One of Spain’s classic white grapes, the more structured Verdejo has floral, lemon and white peach characters and, in the hands of a talented producer, wines made from the variety can age very gracefully.

However, Rueda’s white wines are more typically youthful, unoaked and often presented with a screw cap closure reflecting the modern approach to winemaking in this region. They generally start to appear on the market by the spring following the vintage ready to be enjoyed over the warmer months of the year. They can be a blend of all three grapes or made from one grape (Verdejo or Sauvignon Blanc).

The DO of Valdeorras is situated at the gateway to Galicia in the east of the region. It is made up of three towns: A Rúa, Villamartín and O Barco. The River Sil, which flows from east to west through the DO, is the dominant feature on the landscape. Valdeorras is situated around 150km from the coast and the climate is the most continental of all the DOs of Galicia.

In recent years there has been a lot of excitement surrounding the white Godello grape which has been rediscovered as a variety of great personality and positioned as the region’s star performer. Godello is now to Valdeorras what Albariño is to the Rías Baixas.

Wines made from Godello are generally medium-bodied and therefore more structured than those made from Albariño making them very food friendly. They offer plenty of lemony fruit, a fresh mineral character thanks to the region’s slate soils and great persistence. Godello wines are usually unoaked and youthful but some producers offer barrel-fermented styles and they are capable of ageing.

There is a red partner for this white variety which is showing good potential here: Mencía, a red grape which is increasingly coming into focus in many of the DOs of north west Spain. In the Valdeorras DO producers generally make a young red from Mencía which is light bodied by Spanish standards. It is sometimes blended with other red varieties such as Garnacha Tintorera or Cabernet Sauvignon.